An exquisite 197.80-carat sapphire, once worn by the Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna and documented among the Russian Crown Jewels is to auctioned next month by Sotheby’s. The opening bid is set at 600,000 Swiss Francs [$730,000 USD], the estimate is 850,000 to 1.7 million Swiss Francs [$1,030,800 to 2,1 million USD].

The Romanov Sapphire, an unheated Ceylon gemstone formerly mounted by Fabergé, is the leading lot in the Sotheby’s ‘Royal & Noble Jewels’ sale. The auction will be held on 11th November 2026, at the Mandarin Oriental in Geneva.

In February 1903, the Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna [mother of Emperor Nicholas II], attended the famous costume ball held in the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg. She wore this sapphire at in its diamond setting by Fabergé, together with its pair, on the front panel of her skirt – seen in the photo below. The image of the Dowager Empress in 17th century costume wearing these extraordinarily large sapphires of old Mughal cutting-style together with numerous other jewels of the same superlative dimensions and quality, is a perfect summary of the splendour of the Russian Imperial Court.

PHOTO: Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna dressed in 17th-century
costume for the 1903 Costume Ball in the Winter Palace

Following the Russian Revolution, it was recorded in the Fersman inventory of the Russian Crown Jewels before being sold during the Soviet government’s dispersal of imperial treasures.

It subsequently entered the collection of opera singer and socialite Ganna Walska (1887-1984), who acquired it from Cartier in 1927. The stone later returned to auction at Sotheby’s in New York in 1971 and Geneva in 1992. Cartier created its present transformable bracelet setting in 2015, incorporating brilliant-cut diamonds and accented by modified shield step-cut diamonds and an interchangeable rock crystal centerpiece.

Reports from the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) and Gubelin confirm the sapphire’s Ceylon origin and unheated status. Sotheby’s says the combination of its size, rarity and documented imperial provenance makes it one of the most significant surviving gemstones associated with the Russian Crown Jewels.

Paul Gilbert. 30 October 2026

***

CLICK ON THE LINK BELOW TO ORDER FROM AMAZON

HARD COVER EDITION – PRICE $35.00

PAPERBACK EDITION – PRICE $25.00

BOOK DESCRIPTION

Also known as the Fersman Catalogue, this book documents the Romanov jewels seized from the Imperial Family in 1917. The Bolshevik government attempted to sell them in the 1920s, with only limited success. Originally published as a four-part folio in 1925, this highly sought after historic record is now available in a book format [both hardcover and paperback editions] for the very first time.

Large format 8-1/2″ x 11″ hard cover and paperback editions.
English language. 206 pages + 100 black & white photos